It's been awhile...I am already worried that I haven't tracked enough music to properly compile my Amy's Audibles for 2012. But better late than never. Here are the songs I am loving lately:
Is Your Love Big Enough by Lianne LaHavas
Day You Die by Walk the Moon
No Hope by The Vaccines
Under the Westway by Blur
Savage by Hacienda *
Ho Hey by the Lumineres *
Let's Go by Matt and Kim
Little Black Submarines by Black Keys
Nice to Be Alive by Ball Park Music
All of Me by Tanlines
At Home by Crystal Fighters
Old Pine by Ben Howard
We'll Be Coming Back by Calvin Harris and Example
Forest Whittaker by Bad Books *
No Tell by Smoke & Jackal
Female Robbery by Neighborhood
Handshake by Two Door Cinema Club
Thursday, September 6, 2012
Wee Little Recap
I never planned on going to Ireland and would have lived my life happily without. But the opportunity arose and I went, feeling a need I couldn't explain, to do something unplanned. I am so glad I did.
Ireland is gorgeous country which made me think of rural Pennsylvania where my grandparents live. Rolling hills fill the landscape and there is no way to count the many shades of green. There is rain, lots and lots of rain, so you might think that it is a grey place, but the opposite is true. Everything is so lush and the flowers are amazingly vibrant. The purples seems richer, blues brighter, the reds and pinks pop out like none I've seen before. Houses are painted brightly as well, at the very least have colorful window frames. Castle ruins are mere feet from the roads, which themselves are skinny, crumbling and have you wondering how in the world two cars could ever pass at the same time (the answer: one cars pulls over in the hedge). It seems you are never far away from the coast and it is so scenic the effect is calming and serene.
We left Ireland on a rainy and grey day, typical considering the week. The drive from Northern Ireland to Dublin was easy and we made great time. We had an uneventful RyanAir trip back to London, grabbed a cab and made our way to the hotel about an hour north of the city. The plan was to check in, drop off our stuff and head into London. However, things close early on Sundays, and by things, I mean restaurants and shops. Since both Dearlsey and I had been to the city, and Beth was about to spend a month there, we decided to walk down to the little town near our hotel. We found a little pub and were delighted to learn that they do stay open. We sat outside, drank, laughed, drank some more and ate whatever we wanted. It was another unplanned, but delightfully wonderful afternoon. I had brought my camera and took some of my favorite pictures on the walk back. Exhausted, we were all in bed and asleep by 9.
I have been such a planner my entire life. I have 6 month plans, 2 year, 5 year, 10 year plans. I have spreadsheets upon spreadsheets of different options so I can make a decision about a possible plan. I have airport codes, budgets and potential hotels for vacations I want to do in 5 years. Traveling is very important to me and that is something I can't see changing. But this trip wasn't planned. I didn't save for years. I didn't even really know some of the people I travelled with, meeting one for the first time a month before we left. I didn't have a budget, didn't stick to one, still don't quite know how I am going to pay for the trip. But Everything Worked Out. We all got along. I didn't spend as much as I thought I would. I laughed. I had a great time and I felt more like me than I have in a long time. I enjoyed the experience, even though it wasn't perfect. One of my favorite parts of the trip was standing out in the cold, wind and rain looking at a rock that is thousands of years old. It was something I would have never done before. I would have wanted to, but I wouldn't have done it. This time I did. I stopped often and took loads of pictures. I stayed up all night talking, something I haven't done since I was a teenager. This unplanned trip was just what I needed to remind myself that Everything Works Out. It really does. Sometimes it doesn't work out like it was planned, but that doesn't mean it can't be just as good, and if you are open to it, it might just be better.
So to Ireland, thank you for being such a life changing place for me. Thank you to the people of Ireland for being warm, open, friendly and accepting. Thank you to my travel partners who reminded me that the world is open to me, and that I am going to be alright. Everything Works Out.
Ireland is gorgeous country which made me think of rural Pennsylvania where my grandparents live. Rolling hills fill the landscape and there is no way to count the many shades of green. There is rain, lots and lots of rain, so you might think that it is a grey place, but the opposite is true. Everything is so lush and the flowers are amazingly vibrant. The purples seems richer, blues brighter, the reds and pinks pop out like none I've seen before. Houses are painted brightly as well, at the very least have colorful window frames. Castle ruins are mere feet from the roads, which themselves are skinny, crumbling and have you wondering how in the world two cars could ever pass at the same time (the answer: one cars pulls over in the hedge). It seems you are never far away from the coast and it is so scenic the effect is calming and serene.
We left Ireland on a rainy and grey day, typical considering the week. The drive from Northern Ireland to Dublin was easy and we made great time. We had an uneventful RyanAir trip back to London, grabbed a cab and made our way to the hotel about an hour north of the city. The plan was to check in, drop off our stuff and head into London. However, things close early on Sundays, and by things, I mean restaurants and shops. Since both Dearlsey and I had been to the city, and Beth was about to spend a month there, we decided to walk down to the little town near our hotel. We found a little pub and were delighted to learn that they do stay open. We sat outside, drank, laughed, drank some more and ate whatever we wanted. It was another unplanned, but delightfully wonderful afternoon. I had brought my camera and took some of my favorite pictures on the walk back. Exhausted, we were all in bed and asleep by 9. 
I have been such a planner my entire life. I have 6 month plans, 2 year, 5 year, 10 year plans. I have spreadsheets upon spreadsheets of different options so I can make a decision about a possible plan. I have airport codes, budgets and potential hotels for vacations I want to do in 5 years. Traveling is very important to me and that is something I can't see changing. But this trip wasn't planned. I didn't save for years. I didn't even really know some of the people I travelled with, meeting one for the first time a month before we left. I didn't have a budget, didn't stick to one, still don't quite know how I am going to pay for the trip. But Everything Worked Out. We all got along. I didn't spend as much as I thought I would. I laughed. I had a great time and I felt more like me than I have in a long time. I enjoyed the experience, even though it wasn't perfect. One of my favorite parts of the trip was standing out in the cold, wind and rain looking at a rock that is thousands of years old. It was something I would have never done before. I would have wanted to, but I wouldn't have done it. This time I did. I stopped often and took loads of pictures. I stayed up all night talking, something I haven't done since I was a teenager. This unplanned trip was just what I needed to remind myself that Everything Works Out. It really does. Sometimes it doesn't work out like it was planned, but that doesn't mean it can't be just as good, and if you are open to it, it might just be better. 
So to Ireland, thank you for being such a life changing place for me. Thank you to the people of Ireland for being warm, open, friendly and accepting. Thank you to my travel partners who reminded me that the world is open to me, and that I am going to be alright. Everything Works Out. Friday, August 3, 2012
Big Bad Belfast...Blog Post or History Lesson...You Decide.
Honestly, I didn't know a lot about the whole Northern Ireland/Republic of Ireland conflict when I planned the trip to Ireland. We knew we wanted to see Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland and since we were up that way, I knew I wanted to check out the Titanic Museum in Belfast. Even though I didn't have the specifics, there was an inherent danger to the North and specifically Belfast. I researched where it was OK to be Catholic, where I shouldn't say a word. I registered with the State Department in case "Something Bad" should happen. I was expecting bombings, or at least buildings that had been recently bombed. This was Belfast after all, home of The Troubles, the IRA and Other Bad Things.
So on our way to Northern Ireland, I read up on the issue. While it is completely naive to summarize a centuries long conflict into black and white absolutes after reading a few articles, I will do just that for you. In the 1600s, the English protestants looked across the English Channel and decided they wanted Ireland for their own. Since the northern part of the country was wealthier, they sent missionaries to convert the Catholics and settle the land. As you can imagine, the Catholics did not like this and many wars ensued. In 1795 The Orange Order was founded, committed to upholding the Protestant Values and staying true to Englishman William of Orange (why orange is the color of protesters, even today). In 1801 Ireland officially became part of the United Kingdom.
Native Irish people didn't like that at all and the fighting continued between the Nationalists who were mostly Catholic and wanted Ireland to be its own country, and the Unionists, mostly Protestants who though Ireland should remain part of the United Kingdom. In 1920 the country was officially divided into Southern Ireland that became The Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, which remained part of the United Kingdom.
The real problems started in the 70s with the formation of the Provisional Irish Republican Army. The IRA had traditionally been non-violent; the new IRA relished in violence. There were bombings, killings, shootings. 1972 was a particularly bad year. You have probably heard of Bloody Sunday, made famous by U2. That is when 26 non-armed civil rights protesters were killed. Bloody Friday, a day when 22 bombs were detonated in Belfast in just over an hour's time, also took place in 1972. In that one year over 500 people died, most of them civilians. Over the next 35 years there were more bombings, peace treaties, shootings, hunger strikes and over 3500 people died. Walls were built between the Catholics and the Protestants. Check points and searches were customary just to get around the city.
There has been relative peace since 2009 when major leaders announced they were going to try to settle matters peacefully, the borders have been removed and for the most part Belfast and Northern Ireland is a safe place to go. I say for the most part because as recently as July 12, 2012, there have still been riots. The Orange Volunteers still do parades and are still banned in some parts of the country. Peace is tenuous at best. We were there on the 40th anniversary of Bloody Friday and protests and parades were planned, with orange being the color of the day.
So I rode into Belfast on the train expecting to see destruction, armies or at least some indication of their history. I was quite surprised with what I found.
Belfast is a large city, industrial in parts, but quite lovely with an amazing energy about it. Out first stop was the Titanic Museum. My parents were Titanic buffs, so I knew a lot of the history. Since the ship was built in Belfast,the museum really went into how the actual ship was built. The museum included a ride, interactive displays and life size models of the various class rooms. I was most interested in the after effects of the sinking; the story of the boat and the men who had to recover the bodies from the ocean (only 1 in 5 bodies was ever found), catalog them and try to identify them. A lot of time was taken on the legal ramifications, the changes to ship safety and the impact on procedures. It was quite a neat tour.
We left there and headed to St. George's Market, a local farmer's market with artists, craftsmen and lots of food. There was fresh fish, every type of food you'd want (even over sized, fattening American food at Fat Daddy's). There was a jazz band playing in the middle and we wandered around for hours, sampling cookies, cakes, peanut brittle and buying jewelry and gifts. This was our slice of life tour, as we sat and ate lunch we noticed we were the only Americans to be seen. We were living how people in Belfast live, going to the market for Saturday, meeting friends, grabbing a bite to eat. It was fantastic people watching for sure.
We left St. George's and wandered the streets looking for cool architecture, which was everywhere. We went shopping, took pictures and even stopped in a Catholic church, meeting a sweet little old lady who was looking to go to Confession. She was from Belfast and asked where we were from. When we said North Carolina, she said "Raleigh." No, we said. We are from Charlotte. She shook her head "Raleigh is the capital. I know all the capitals of the United States." Again I was struck with how ignorant we are as a country.
We hopped back on the train and headed back to Portrush. I wished I could have spent more time in Belfast and might try to take a trip back there one day. The history, combined with the energy of the country is very compelling to me. Everyone we spoke with was quite nice and the city itself is gorgeous. The Capital building has the huge grassy area and people were picnicking, playing Frisbee and a huge TV was set up for people to watch the Olympics. Belfast is very much part of Great Britain and Olympic Rings were everywhere, sometimes next to names of ships built along the docks. The currency is in pounds, accents are sharper, more Scottish, and the feeling is overwhelmingly British. The city has FANTASTICALLY huge bike lanes, is very walker friendly and had musicians on almost every corner. Belfast was the opposite of the quiet farm community we had spent the first part of the week at, but it still was an amazingly comfortable city. It felt like a safe place to be anonymous, and that is something that appeals to me for some reason.
So I didn't see bombings and nothing BAD happened to me. I'm not so sure that the war is over and while I sympathize with the Nationalists, there is a point where you are killing your neighbors and families and you just need to get on board with the change. Again, easy for me to say. I do think it is interesting to read how much The Troubles have affected Northern Ireland as a society. Suicide rates are higher, sexual promiscuity is high with STDs being higher in NI than anywhere else. Alcoholism rates are higher and there is a general lack of trust. But even with that I am intrigued by Belfast, feel an odd sense of wanting to know more, to see more, to feel more of it. Maybe it is just the change to see history made real, maybe it is something else. I was very aware of my religious upbringing in the city and that made me feel connected in a way that makes no rational sense.
If you get the chance to go to Belfast, go! It is being touted as the next "must see" city and the local government has gone to great lengths to revitalize the entire area. It's worked, and I must admit I have a wee bit of a crush on Belfast.
So on our way to Northern Ireland, I read up on the issue. While it is completely naive to summarize a centuries long conflict into black and white absolutes after reading a few articles, I will do just that for you. In the 1600s, the English protestants looked across the English Channel and decided they wanted Ireland for their own. Since the northern part of the country was wealthier, they sent missionaries to convert the Catholics and settle the land. As you can imagine, the Catholics did not like this and many wars ensued. In 1795 The Orange Order was founded, committed to upholding the Protestant Values and staying true to Englishman William of Orange (why orange is the color of protesters, even today). In 1801 Ireland officially became part of the United Kingdom.
Native Irish people didn't like that at all and the fighting continued between the Nationalists who were mostly Catholic and wanted Ireland to be its own country, and the Unionists, mostly Protestants who though Ireland should remain part of the United Kingdom. In 1920 the country was officially divided into Southern Ireland that became The Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland, which remained part of the United Kingdom.
The real problems started in the 70s with the formation of the Provisional Irish Republican Army. The IRA had traditionally been non-violent; the new IRA relished in violence. There were bombings, killings, shootings. 1972 was a particularly bad year. You have probably heard of Bloody Sunday, made famous by U2. That is when 26 non-armed civil rights protesters were killed. Bloody Friday, a day when 22 bombs were detonated in Belfast in just over an hour's time, also took place in 1972. In that one year over 500 people died, most of them civilians. Over the next 35 years there were more bombings, peace treaties, shootings, hunger strikes and over 3500 people died. Walls were built between the Catholics and the Protestants. Check points and searches were customary just to get around the city.
There has been relative peace since 2009 when major leaders announced they were going to try to settle matters peacefully, the borders have been removed and for the most part Belfast and Northern Ireland is a safe place to go. I say for the most part because as recently as July 12, 2012, there have still been riots. The Orange Volunteers still do parades and are still banned in some parts of the country. Peace is tenuous at best. We were there on the 40th anniversary of Bloody Friday and protests and parades were planned, with orange being the color of the day.
So I rode into Belfast on the train expecting to see destruction, armies or at least some indication of their history. I was quite surprised with what I found.
Belfast is a large city, industrial in parts, but quite lovely with an amazing energy about it. Out first stop was the Titanic Museum. My parents were Titanic buffs, so I knew a lot of the history. Since the ship was built in Belfast,the museum really went into how the actual ship was built. The museum included a ride, interactive displays and life size models of the various class rooms. I was most interested in the after effects of the sinking; the story of the boat and the men who had to recover the bodies from the ocean (only 1 in 5 bodies was ever found), catalog them and try to identify them. A lot of time was taken on the legal ramifications, the changes to ship safety and the impact on procedures. It was quite a neat tour. 
We left there and headed to St. George's Market, a local farmer's market with artists, craftsmen and lots of food. There was fresh fish, every type of food you'd want (even over sized, fattening American food at Fat Daddy's). There was a jazz band playing in the middle and we wandered around for hours, sampling cookies, cakes, peanut brittle and buying jewelry and gifts. This was our slice of life tour, as we sat and ate lunch we noticed we were the only Americans to be seen. We were living how people in Belfast live, going to the market for Saturday, meeting friends, grabbing a bite to eat. It was fantastic people watching for sure. 
We left St. George's and wandered the streets looking for cool architecture, which was everywhere. We went shopping, took pictures and even stopped in a Catholic church, meeting a sweet little old lady who was looking to go to Confession. She was from Belfast and asked where we were from. When we said North Carolina, she said "Raleigh." No, we said. We are from Charlotte. She shook her head "Raleigh is the capital. I know all the capitals of the United States." Again I was struck with how ignorant we are as a country. 
We hopped back on the train and headed back to Portrush. I wished I could have spent more time in Belfast and might try to take a trip back there one day. The history, combined with the energy of the country is very compelling to me. Everyone we spoke with was quite nice and the city itself is gorgeous. The Capital building has the huge grassy area and people were picnicking, playing Frisbee and a huge TV was set up for people to watch the Olympics. Belfast is very much part of Great Britain and Olympic Rings were everywhere, sometimes next to names of ships built along the docks. The currency is in pounds, accents are sharper, more Scottish, and the feeling is overwhelmingly British. The city has FANTASTICALLY huge bike lanes, is very walker friendly and had musicians on almost every corner. Belfast was the opposite of the quiet farm community we had spent the first part of the week at, but it still was an amazingly comfortable city. It felt like a safe place to be anonymous, and that is something that appeals to me for some reason.
So I didn't see bombings and nothing BAD happened to me. I'm not so sure that the war is over and while I sympathize with the Nationalists, there is a point where you are killing your neighbors and families and you just need to get on board with the change. Again, easy for me to say. I do think it is interesting to read how much The Troubles have affected Northern Ireland as a society. Suicide rates are higher, sexual promiscuity is high with STDs being higher in NI than anywhere else. Alcoholism rates are higher and there is a general lack of trust. But even with that I am intrigued by Belfast, feel an odd sense of wanting to know more, to see more, to feel more of it. Maybe it is just the change to see history made real, maybe it is something else. I was very aware of my religious upbringing in the city and that made me feel connected in a way that makes no rational sense. If you get the chance to go to Belfast, go! It is being touted as the next "must see" city and the local government has gone to great lengths to revitalize the entire area. It's worked, and I must admit I have a wee bit of a crush on Belfast.
Thursday, July 26, 2012
Touristy Tourist Tours
We woke up Friday to the most gorgeous blue skies; it seemed crazy that it had been rainy for so long. I can see how one sunny day makes up for the rainy grey ones. We had a fantastic breakfast that Karen cooked. All week we have been skipping breakfast or just having a quick piece of toast so it was luxurious to sit down to a fully cooked, delicious, made to order meal. We then headed out to check out the area tourist attractions.
First stop was Dunlace Castle. We had to pay 8 pounds to get in which just seemed wrong after the first few days of traipsing through castles for free. But once I saw the grounds, I was impressed. Dunlace Castle is a huge compound since it also served as a village for most of the people that worked in the castle. Only 17 miles from Scotland, the castle traded ownership from Irish to Scottish several times until it was eventually destroyed and abandoned. It was a pretty impressive ruin, and the views over the water aer fantastic. There were more people than I would like, though I am a bit spoiled after the private castle tour! But it was neat to see and I am glad I paid the money to see it.
Next up was the Giant's Causeway, the reason we were staying in the Portrush area in the first place. The Giant's Causeway is an impressive geological formation of almost identical rock hexagons. There are estimated to be 40,000 of them and most geologists believe they were formed 65 million years ago. The coolest part is the pattern which is most likely formed as a result of rock crystallization under conditions of accelerated cooling, occurring when molten lava comes into immediate contact with water. I had heard about these and seen some pictures online but I was unprepared for how amazing a sight it is when you are there in person. It really is quite amazing the power of Mother Nature. And really, the entire country kinda makes me want to go back to school to become a geology student so I could do an entire thesis on the geological wonders of Ireland. We climbed around the stones, making a wish at the wishing chair stone and taking a ton of pictures. One of my favorite things was a wall on the back side where people have placed coins into cracks in the rocks. The wind and the rain have caused the coins to bend. It is said that it is good luck to place a coin in the wall, and for some reason, this felt like something I had to do. So I did. Hopefully my wish comes true!
After a failed attempt to see Bushmills Distillery, the oldest whiskey producer in the world, we ate dinner and headed out to see a row of trees that forms a beautifully creepy hedge leading up to an estate. It has been featured in The Game Of Thrones, which a lot of people I know watch, so I figured it would be worth seeing. We found it, but honestly were unimpressed. Sure it was neat, but not what I thought it was going to be. I was able to get some pretty great pictures out there and it actually was the site of one of the funniest moments of the trip.
Most cars in Ireland are stick shift so that meant that Dearsley and I did all the driving since Beth didn't know how to drive. We were on this quiet back road taking pictures and Beth asked to try her hand at manual transmission. Now the shifter is on the left, you have to drive on the left, so not only did she have to learn how to use the clutch, she had to shift with her left and remember to stay left. She actually did really well, so well that I was a tad disappointed. We got to the intersection where the other 3 girls were standing and Beth freaked out. She was laughing, crying and screaming "GET OUT OF THE WAY." We told her she was clear to go but she waited. She finally started, drifted back and squealed the tires as she peeled through the stop sign. It was funny for all of us, but became truly hilarious when we saw the video. There is a long pause as Beth waits, she drifts back out of frame then peels out. We watched the video over and over again, laughing until we were all crying. Anyone who has ever learned how to drive stick will understand how hysterical it was, since every single one of us has done exactly that. It was such an unexpected moment, but such a highlight of the trip for sure.
It is crazy that the trip is nearing it's end. Only one more day in Ireland and then it is all basically travel back home. I usually don't like being a typical tourist and prefer off the beaten path scenery, but today was worth putting up with the crowds. It gave me a renewed sense of awe for the planet, for geology and a love of laughing until you cry, cough and double over from joy. Five months ago I hardly knew these women I was with and yet I have such a feeling of love for them and that makes me happy in a way I really needed. Maybe it is the luck of the Irish, all the green or the stories of magic and fairies, but this trip is truly magical for me.
 |
| Dunlace Castle |
Next up was the Giant's Causeway, the reason we were staying in the Portrush area in the first place. The Giant's Causeway is an impressive geological formation of almost identical rock hexagons. There are estimated to be 40,000 of them and most geologists believe they were formed 65 million years ago. The coolest part is the pattern which is most likely formed as a result of rock crystallization under conditions of accelerated cooling, occurring when molten lava comes into immediate contact with water. I had heard about these and seen some pictures online but I was unprepared for how amazing a sight it is when you are there in person. It really is quite amazing the power of Mother Nature. And really, the entire country kinda makes me want to go back to school to become a geology student so I could do an entire thesis on the geological wonders of Ireland. We climbed around the stones, making a wish at the wishing chair stone and taking a ton of pictures. One of my favorite things was a wall on the back side where people have placed coins into cracks in the rocks. The wind and the rain have caused the coins to bend. It is said that it is good luck to place a coin in the wall, and for some reason, this felt like something I had to do. So I did. Hopefully my wish comes true! After a failed attempt to see Bushmills Distillery, the oldest whiskey producer in the world, we ate dinner and headed out to see a row of trees that forms a beautifully creepy hedge leading up to an estate. It has been featured in The Game Of Thrones, which a lot of people I know watch, so I figured it would be worth seeing. We found it, but honestly were unimpressed. Sure it was neat, but not what I thought it was going to be. I was able to get some pretty great pictures out there and it actually was the site of one of the funniest moments of the trip.
Most cars in Ireland are stick shift so that meant that Dearsley and I did all the driving since Beth didn't know how to drive. We were on this quiet back road taking pictures and Beth asked to try her hand at manual transmission. Now the shifter is on the left, you have to drive on the left, so not only did she have to learn how to use the clutch, she had to shift with her left and remember to stay left. She actually did really well, so well that I was a tad disappointed. We got to the intersection where the other 3 girls were standing and Beth freaked out. She was laughing, crying and screaming "GET OUT OF THE WAY." We told her she was clear to go but she waited. She finally started, drifted back and squealed the tires as she peeled through the stop sign. It was funny for all of us, but became truly hilarious when we saw the video. There is a long pause as Beth waits, she drifts back out of frame then peels out. We watched the video over and over again, laughing until we were all crying. Anyone who has ever learned how to drive stick will understand how hysterical it was, since every single one of us has done exactly that. It was such an unexpected moment, but such a highlight of the trip for sure.
It is crazy that the trip is nearing it's end. Only one more day in Ireland and then it is all basically travel back home. I usually don't like being a typical tourist and prefer off the beaten path scenery, but today was worth putting up with the crowds. It gave me a renewed sense of awe for the planet, for geology and a love of laughing until you cry, cough and double over from joy. Five months ago I hardly knew these women I was with and yet I have such a feeling of love for them and that makes me happy in a way I really needed. Maybe it is the luck of the Irish, all the green or the stories of magic and fairies, but this trip is truly magical for me.
Wednesday, July 25, 2012
Changes in Lattitudes
Thursday morning we woke up to "warm" temperatures and more blue sky. We were amazed at how far we could see from our house when it cleared....absolutely gorgeous. We said goodbye to Ann and headed out to our next destination - Portrush, Northern Ireland. We were due to meet the other 2 travelers, Candace and Carol, whose work obligations prevented them from joining us earlier. Most people said it would take us 5 hours to make the drive, but knowing how much Beth and I loved taking pictures, we were sure it would take longer.
We weren't on the road more than 15 minutes when we made our first picture stop at an old graveyard at the side of the road. I don't know why I love old cemeteries and churches, but I do. I think it is a sense of history, of love, of faith and devotion which are ideals that captivate me. This one happened to over look the ocean with fields int he background and was stunning. There were more than a few Celtic crosses, actually the entire trip was filled with Celtic crosses, claddagh rings and other famed Celtic symbols. It got to be a bit repetitive actually, but in the cemetery the cross took on new meaning. They were gorgeous, with such intricate details. I honestly could have sat there all day, reading the graves and being at peace in such a gorgeous resting place.
But we had miles to go, so we jumped in our car and made it north of Sligo before we stopped again. We were driving down the road when Beth saw a castle in the distance. We decided to take a side road and see how close we could get to it. We winded down quite a bit and never got very close to the castle. BUT we stumbled upon one of the most naturally beautiful places I have ever seen. It helped that it was sunny finally, but the deep blue water against the stone rocks next to the vibrant green grass with an actual castle in the background was just breathtaking. Pictures don't do it justice at all. We stayed there for almost an hour taking pictures of the land, the water, the nearby cows and of course each other. I think this is going to be one of my favorite memories of the entire trip. Obviously because it was so picturesque, but mostly because it was completely unplanned. I am SUCH a planner, with my day, week, month, life in general, but have recently been reminded that plans don't always work out the way you intended. I have seen that as a negative lately, thinking "why didn't it go the way I had planned?" and this little spot, and pictures from it, will always be there for me to know that the most beautiful things can be spontaneous. I'm not going to stop being a planner, but this does give me hope.
One of the most unexpected things about Ireland is the amount of daylight. During the summer there can be 18 hours of sun, meaning the sun comes up at 5am and doesn't set until 11:00pm! So while there was still plenty of sunlight, it was already almost 9pm so we jumped in the car and headed north. We had all wondered what crossing into Northern Ireland would be like. I didn't know a lot about the specifics of the Troubles, I had just heard of them and knew that Northern Ireland was not exactly the nicest place to be a few years ago. In fact when I told people i was traveling to "Norn Iron", most asked if I was scared. (I wasn't). We wondered if we would get an extra stamp on our passport since we would be crossing into a different country. Turns out there is absolutely NOTHING, not even a "Welcome to Northern Ireland" sign. The only indication we had crossed the border came from gas station signs advertising prices in pounds, instead of the Euro from the Republic of Ireland. I was disappointed for sure.
We arrived at MaddyBenny Bed and Breakfast after dark and were greeted by owner Karen White, who immediately told us she could put her "mother worrying cap away" since we had arrived. Booking online hotels is always a crapshoot, so I was pleased when I saw the place was exactly what I wanted. I had booked a self catering cottage for Doolin, but I really wanted the bed and breakfast type atmosphere for NI. The beds were comfortable, there was history, horses, peacocks and chickens everywhere and free wireless! After catching up with Carol and Candace we went to bed, far later than we should have, but much happier and excited to be in a new part, with new friends.
OK - I am verbose...so that is all for this blog.
We weren't on the road more than 15 minutes when we made our first picture stop at an old graveyard at the side of the road. I don't know why I love old cemeteries and churches, but I do. I think it is a sense of history, of love, of faith and devotion which are ideals that captivate me. This one happened to over look the ocean with fields int he background and was stunning. There were more than a few Celtic crosses, actually the entire trip was filled with Celtic crosses, claddagh rings and other famed Celtic symbols. It got to be a bit repetitive actually, but in the cemetery the cross took on new meaning. They were gorgeous, with such intricate details. I honestly could have sat there all day, reading the graves and being at peace in such a gorgeous resting place.
One of the most unexpected things about Ireland is the amount of daylight. During the summer there can be 18 hours of sun, meaning the sun comes up at 5am and doesn't set until 11:00pm! So while there was still plenty of sunlight, it was already almost 9pm so we jumped in the car and headed north. We had all wondered what crossing into Northern Ireland would be like. I didn't know a lot about the specifics of the Troubles, I had just heard of them and knew that Northern Ireland was not exactly the nicest place to be a few years ago. In fact when I told people i was traveling to "Norn Iron", most asked if I was scared. (I wasn't). We wondered if we would get an extra stamp on our passport since we would be crossing into a different country. Turns out there is absolutely NOTHING, not even a "Welcome to Northern Ireland" sign. The only indication we had crossed the border came from gas station signs advertising prices in pounds, instead of the Euro from the Republic of Ireland. I was disappointed for sure.
We arrived at MaddyBenny Bed and Breakfast after dark and were greeted by owner Karen White, who immediately told us she could put her "mother worrying cap away" since we had arrived. Booking online hotels is always a crapshoot, so I was pleased when I saw the place was exactly what I wanted. I had booked a self catering cottage for Doolin, but I really wanted the bed and breakfast type atmosphere for NI. The beds were comfortable, there was history, horses, peacocks and chickens everywhere and free wireless! After catching up with Carol and Candace we went to bed, far later than we should have, but much happier and excited to be in a new part, with new friends.
OK - I am verbose...so that is all for this blog.
Tuesday, July 24, 2012
Excuse me while I kiss the sky.
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| A fireplace in the castle |
Then Ann took us to her farm and let us feed a week old baby cow named Jake. Momma cow had triplets, a very rare thing, and Ann was worried about the amount of milk produced for the babies so is supplementing Jake with milk, served in a wine bottle! She let us take a turn feeding him which was a fun, simple thing. Cows are awesome. I cannot say enough nice things about Ann and her home. If you should ever find yourself needing a place to stay in Doolin, Ireland, please look her up.
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| The Cliffs of Moher |
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| Blue Skies over the Cliffs of Moher |
After the cliffs, we headed back to the house to shower and get ready for our last night in Doolin. Tony the cabbie picked us back up and we headed to McDermott's for dinner. This is a truly local place, where families gather for good pub grub and good music. The night was pretty low key, so we ate and headed over to McGann's to see what was happening there. I am not sure if it was a collective hangover from the night before or just a regular low key night, but the crowd was smaller, the music more intimate and as a result we found ourselves in a deep political conversation with some Irishmen.
The more I travel, the more I become aware of how ignorant and arrogant Americans are. Here I was in a small town in Ireland and people knew not only the major political leaders, but also details on our system and major laws and issues as well as our history including presidents. I was shocked but mostly embarrassed by my lack of the same information about a country I was visiting for a week. I love traveling because it teaches me in the best way I know to learn, but it also keeps me grounded in all that I don't know, and what knowledge I need to seek out. Traveling also reminds me of how similar humans are; wanting to be loved and needed and respected. Meeting strangers, discussing common bonds and learning so much is the essence of why I love to travel and why it will remain a priority in my life. It makes me appreciate what I have and the opportunities that I take so for granted as well.
So after 4 days in Doolin, we are packing up and heading up north to Portrush in Northern Ireland to meet up with Candace and Carol. I am excited to see another part of this gorgeous country, but sad to say goodbye to this wonderful town and its lovely people who have been so gracious to us while we have stayed. Now that I see what a blue sky looks like, this is a truly gorgeous place that is worth seeing sometime in your life.
Saturday, July 21, 2012
50 mph winds to 3 sheets in the wind...
You don't come to Ireland for the weather that is for sure. We started Tuesday later than normal and that was perfectly fine with me. There is such a rush to do and see and not miss a thing that it is easy to ignore the fact that you are just plain tired. It isn't jet lag, just exhaustion.
The weather was horrible anyway, with a thick fog settling over the entire area. We literally could not see 25 feet in front of us. Figuring it wasn't ever going to be any better, we set off for the Cliffs of Moher.
When I first starting researching Ireland, I was drawn to the cliffs and knew that I wanted to see them. In fact the cliffs are why we are staying in Doolin, 5 miles away. So we drove up, paid roughly $10 a person to park and walked into the visitor's center. It was cold, rainy, windy and we could hardly see a thing. We did spend some time in the gift shop and I was glad to see an ATM, e only one around for 25 miles. After watching the documentary films, shopping and warming up a bit, we ventured out onto the cliffs. Wondering what they looked like? Take a white sheet of paper. Hold it up to your face. That is what it looked like. We literally could not see a thing. We knew they were there since the mist would randomly clear for 5 seconds, long enough to see that the cliffs were real, but not long enough to get the lens cap off the camera. We stayed for a bit, then left pretty disappointed.
You can't plan for the weather and the best bet is to make the best of it, no matter what. Luckily we did just that. We drove around, then went home, took a nap to rally for a pub night. Since driving on the left takes full concentration, neither me nor Dearsley felt comfortable driving having anything to drink. So we decided for Tuesday to get a cab so we could both drink. Tony the cabbie picked us up and recommended we go to Doolin instead of Lisdornvarna since it was a bit more exciting. He dropped us off at McGann's pub since a "fantastic piper was there". We walked in and the place was packed. I was disappointed to find that most of them were tourists, but I couldn't deny the atmosphere was electric. When the famed piper came in (Michael from Foolin in Doolin, he plays the uilleann pipes) the crowd reacted like he was a rock star. It was amazing! We drank, flirted with bartenders, talked to Americans, Dutch, Scandinavians, Malaysians and of course Irish. It was fun. One thing that is different in the pubs here is that they do not waste space. If two people are sitting at a table for 4, they might have another couple seated with them that they do not know. Not only does this utilize the very tiny space, it is a great way to get to know each other. We came home, Dearsley made Irish soda bread with honey, we drunk skyped people (drunk dialing is one area that really did not need technological advances) and had a great night. I am pretty in love with this little town of ours. Not only is it gorgeous, but the people are fantastic. I feel like I have stumbled upon a fairy tale and now I am not sure I ever want to leave!
When I first starting researching Ireland, I was drawn to the cliffs and knew that I wanted to see them. In fact the cliffs are why we are staying in Doolin, 5 miles away. So we drove up, paid roughly $10 a person to park and walked into the visitor's center. It was cold, rainy, windy and we could hardly see a thing. We did spend some time in the gift shop and I was glad to see an ATM, e only one around for 25 miles. After watching the documentary films, shopping and warming up a bit, we ventured out onto the cliffs. Wondering what they looked like? Take a white sheet of paper. Hold it up to your face. That is what it looked like. We literally could not see a thing. We knew they were there since the mist would randomly clear for 5 seconds, long enough to see that the cliffs were real, but not long enough to get the lens cap off the camera. We stayed for a bit, then left pretty disappointed.
You can't plan for the weather and the best bet is to make the best of it, no matter what. Luckily we did just that. We drove around, then went home, took a nap to rally for a pub night. Since driving on the left takes full concentration, neither me nor Dearsley felt comfortable driving having anything to drink. So we decided for Tuesday to get a cab so we could both drink. Tony the cabbie picked us up and recommended we go to Doolin instead of Lisdornvarna since it was a bit more exciting. He dropped us off at McGann's pub since a "fantastic piper was there". We walked in and the place was packed. I was disappointed to find that most of them were tourists, but I couldn't deny the atmosphere was electric. When the famed piper came in (Michael from Foolin in Doolin, he plays the uilleann pipes) the crowd reacted like he was a rock star. It was amazing! We drank, flirted with bartenders, talked to Americans, Dutch, Scandinavians, Malaysians and of course Irish. It was fun. One thing that is different in the pubs here is that they do not waste space. If two people are sitting at a table for 4, they might have another couple seated with them that they do not know. Not only does this utilize the very tiny space, it is a great way to get to know each other. We came home, Dearsley made Irish soda bread with honey, we drunk skyped people (drunk dialing is one area that really did not need technological advances) and had a great night. I am pretty in love with this little town of ours. Not only is it gorgeous, but the people are fantastic. I feel like I have stumbled upon a fairy tale and now I am not sure I ever want to leave!
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